Float question...

[Terrapin]

I have used two types of floats to date.

I use the Thill float the most because it seems to be really easy to fish and set up.  The other day I tried out a Dink float about 18" above a jig.  Thats where my question comes from.

Does a dink float need to ride straight up and down like a balsa float?  Do I need to put a in-line weight in between the dink and the jig to make it ride upright?  Does it matter with a dink?

Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks...

Terrapin

[SciGuy]

Yes, weight the dink itself and/or add weight (usually split shot or a piece of pencil lead) between your jig and the float.  A properly weighted float, of any sort, will be almost entirely submerged.  Set it so that only 1/2 inch or so is above the water level.  Here is a nice tutorial from Zonker on one type of weight system for use under a float:  http://steelheadnotebook.net/forum/index.php/topic,23.0.html

Also:



Good luck.

[Andrew]

Only 1/2 an inch? Even in chop? I don't think my eyes could handle that.

Personally, I like to have at least 1-1.5 inches of the standard 4" dink sitting above the water. This allows me to get a good sense of the angle its riding at (hopefully 90 degrees even). 

Keep in mind that with either a dink or a balsa, though, at least from my perspective, the main point to having a vertical float is so you can read the bottom/what the jig is doing, and detect takedowns quickly and easily. This is important in fishing water you're less familiar with, but if you've got a few areas you know pretty well, don't get too caught up with the "perfectly vertical" thing. Half the time I'm out fishing my home river my float is underweighted and slanted one way or another. And a float doesn't have to go under to signal a fish... if it's leaning, it will stand up straight first, a definite "set the hook!" indicator. 

At any rate, you'll want enough weight to get casting distance and some sort of upright float position, and, yup, zonker's in-line weights will do just that. He's a tutorial wizard.

Good luck,

Andrew

[SciGuy]

Alright Andrew...maybe I go 3/4 of an inch...not more than that though.  I like to keep as much of the float under as possible with still maintaining easy visual.  I think I get a more natural drift that way.  The current has more control over the presentation and compensates for any failures to mend perfectly.

[Jiggy]

at times be careful if you use alot of weight and a light jig because the weight can be holding your float straight up and down while your jig is dragging or being swept ahead. Just a problem i have ran into to watch out for.
Jiggy

[rvrfshr]

 I like approx. 3/4 of the float submerged and riding at about a 0 - 15 degree tilt, top tilted upstream of course. I guess at times depending on float size 1/2" could be exposed and others 1 1/2" would be. For me a 4-1/2" x 3/4" tapered foam float = about 1-1/4" showing topside.

 Straight up and down would be nice but a natural partially swung presentation in moving water often says nope, (and I'm known as an "excessive coiler"). Weighting is the key to a perfect ride.

                                                                                                         Joe

 

[dardevle]

I'm with you, rvrfshr, on having 3/4 exposed.  When the float rides an inch or less above the water I have a couple issues.  The faster, bumpier water can bring it under(especially with some boily undertows).  Secondly it seems to plow right through the nice "choppy top" that fish hold under.  When it plows through without bumping up and down, I think it takes away from the jigs natural presentation.  I catch way more steelhead when the float bumps along with the natural surface chop.

[SciGuy]

Hmm...this thread is becoming more and more interesting, at least to me.  Once you know how to read water, I think the key to steelheading is knowing exactly what your lure is doing, and much of this information is transmitted to you by your float.  I hope more of you weigh in.  I think my perspective might be skewed by the fact that I don't run jigs under my float all that often.  Because I usually run neutral bouyancy lures, I get plenty of action from under water swirls and thus don't need to rely on surface chop for action.  Yes, I do sometimes plow through chop or get pulled under a bit when the lure gets sucked into some fast water while the float is still in the soft stuff.  In the latter situation, I figure that my lure has been swept out of the zone anyway so I just drag the set up back into to soft water and continue with my drift.  The one time I do leave 1/2 the float exposed is when I fish tailouts by quartering across.  Typically to do this I adjust the lead-to-float distance 2-3 feet longer than the water column, cast 3/4 downstream and bounce every 6-10 feet sideways through the tailout.  This can be very effective after beating up the main hole for a while.
>'))))><|

[Brian]

I guess I should chime in here as well. When fishing dinks I like around 3/4 of the float submerged, so I guess that only leaves about an inch above the water. I am not as concerned with how much float is or isn't in the water, but I do want it standing straight up when drifting through the holding water. In slower water I do think it is important to have a drag free drift, especially when using jigs made of marabou or rabbit fur,  but in faster water it just doesn't seem to matter as much. I have heard a lot of talk about fish picking up as your float is swinging across the river after completing the drift. I have not experienced this myself, but have heard this can be deadly. I may have to give this swing a greater effort this season.

[dardevle]

I meant 3/4 of my float submerged.  Sorry! 

[Ironhead]

Some people say 3/4 under, some say 1/4 above . I'm more of a 11/16 underwater guy, or is it 5/16 above, nevermind .

[Andrew]

I've taken a few fish this year swinging the float at the end of the drift. It makes good sense. If you're still in water with some depth when you feel it's time to reel in, applying that bit of tension will work to lift the jig up and give a real change in presentation from what any followers might have been seeing in the preceding moments... kind of like when your spinner makes the turn and flashes the lure tape that's been concealed on the back of the blade.

I can see what Bill's reasoning on the dead drift, though. The only real reason to have the float riding nice and even on top is to give the jig/worm the dancing action. Otherwise the float's only purpose is to keep your lure more or less in the zone and signal the strike whenever it comes--both of which can be achieved regardless of what your float's doing on the surface.

I guess that's why I don't mind my float riding high and ultra-buoyant, though. I'm always fishing jigs, and a high float telegraphs the surface chop really effectively. In clear water you can see the feathers breathing from across the river. 

Andrew