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Author Topic: rubber boot repair?  (Read 5836 times)
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Mr. Diapers
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« Topic Start: January 08, 2010, 08:46:11 PM »

I have some bootfoot waders.

It's got a couple holes and some cracking in the rubber boot.  It seems like some of those bootfoot waders in the market have really thin rubber on the boot.

Any suggestions for patching the rubber (as opposed to neoprene, or gore-tex)?  Would applying a layer/coating of Aquaseal (over the cracks in the rubber) remain stuck over time?

(I'm cheap and would like to get a few more years out of them, rather than throwing them out)

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SteelyDrew
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« Reply #1: January 08, 2010, 08:56:02 PM »

I just did my first repair job on my neoprenes with a wader patch kit. It worked well....then my buddy came over with the same problem as u so he used what was left on the rubber boots and it sealed a 1" crack in the rubber and never leaked, he just found out he had other smaller holes elsewhere. Anyways, the wader repair kit works fine, i cant remember what one it was but it was the cheap one (somewhere around $20). From my least favorite, worst service store...Auburn Sports + Marine.

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NWRetics
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« Reply #2: January 08, 2010, 11:29:52 PM »

try plasti-dip

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Fast- eddy
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« Reply #3: January 09, 2010, 06:51:46 AM »

Aquaseal or shoe goo.  I have had great results with the aquaseal personally!

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Juan de Fuca
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« Reply #4: January 09, 2010, 07:47:14 AM »

Another vote for Aquaseal. I have a pair of rubber work boots that over the years has developed a few crack and pin holes. I've gotten an extra two years and counting, out of the Aquaseal.

1. Clean entire boot area from loose dirt

2. roughen up area with crack and area around it. (using 80-100 grit sand paper or a product called "dragon skin")

3. Clean area with rubbing alcohol

4. apply thin layer over crack and an inch or so beyond, plus any area that has a future for cracking. This layer should be as thick as Aquaseal naturally levels off at, not pooling, dripping or paper thin.

5. Let air dry. Aquaseal is not a binder, don't try and use it as an adhesive with an additional material (example don't use it to glue a rubber patch over a crack), By covering Aquaseal, it does not get enough oxygen to cure properly, it needs full air exposure and is designed to be tough enough on its own once cured. AquaSeal sandwiched between two materials turns into a useless mess.

6. Make sure not to get drips, you want a smooth finish that will not catch or grab. Drips turn into the start of a failure point.

If the cracks in your boots, are at the junction of the neoprene and rubber, this will still work, but results may be temporary.
Trumps rubber cement or contact cement patch kits.

On another semi-related note: I'd recommend not storing your rubber waders, rubber boots, bicycle tires, wheel barrow tires, rain gear etc.... in the garage with your lawn mower, gas tank, gas powered weed eater (any thing with gas fumes)?

Lots of people are unaware of this but storing gas products/fumes in a garage with rubber stuff will shorten the life of anything such as the above mentioned.

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FireFish
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« Reply #5: January 09, 2010, 11:52:59 PM »

NW Retics is spot on. The easiest, cheapest and best repair will be Plasti Dip in a spray can. Clean the area from dirt and debris, but it doesn't have to be spotless. Spray it on in layers, one layer at a time, allowed to dry. 3 or 4 layers and it should be good. It's rubber and flexible, contours to any shape and has a wide temperature range. The stuff flat out works on any type of boot or wader, and it's cheap.
Let me know how it goes... Grin

FireFish...

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NWRetics
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« Reply #6: January 11, 2010, 11:04:51 PM »

NW Retics is spot on. The easiest, cheapest and best repair will be Plasti Dip in a spray can. Clean the area from dirt and debris, but it doesn't have to be spotless. Spray it on in layers, one layer at a time, allowed to dry. 3 or 4 layers and it should be good. It's rubber and flexible, contours to any shape and has a wide temperature range. The stuff flat out works on any type of boot or wader, and it's cheap.
Let me know how it goes... Grin

FireFish...

i use the stuff in the can and use  a foam paint brush to apply work great on those leaks on bendy spots (seams ,toes ,inner thigh) and 1 can goes a long ways many repairs

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Mr. Diapers
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« Reply #7: January 12, 2010, 01:34:30 PM »

NW Retics is spot on. The easiest, cheapest and best repair will be Plasti Dip in a spray can. Clean the area from dirt and debris, but it doesn't have to be spotless. Spray it on in layers, one layer at a time, allowed to dry. 3 or 4 layers and it should be good. It's rubber and flexible, contours to any shape and has a wide temperature range. The stuff flat out works on any type of boot or wader, and it's cheap.
Let me know how it goes... Grin

FireFish...

i use the stuff in the can and use  a foam paint brush to apply work great on those leaks on bendy spots (seams ,toes ,inner thigh) and 1 can goes a long ways many repairs


Thanks for the tips fellas.

I do have Plasti-Dip and have used it to fix/seal neoprene and various other things.  Works great for those materials.

BUT I have never used it to seal RUBBER boots. 

In your experience Firefish and NWRetics, will the plasti-dip remain stuck on the boot rubber?  My concern is that it would start to peel off after a couple of uses (i.e., I am not sure how well it will remain glued to the rather smooth rubber surface of a boot)

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NWRetics
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« Reply #8: January 12, 2010, 04:12:50 PM »

take sand paper and scuff the boot a little  then apply

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FireFish
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« Reply #9: January 12, 2010, 11:05:01 PM »

Another good product for rubber, is a good old tube of silicone, forma gasket. I have an old pair of rubber hip waders, that I wear in the summer time still. They are at least 20 yrs. old. I got a small tear in them, down low years ago. It's been covered by a glob of Blue silicone ever since, and it's still on there, solid... Stuff actually worked better then I thought.
Just giving you some options...  Grin

FireFish...

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